Tools Required:
1. Electric drill with screwdriver bits and a 1/4" (Magnetic) hex bit.
2. 3/8" Drill bit.
3. Hack saw or electric jig saw with a fine toothed blade for metal.
4. Caulking gun.
5. Measuring tape.
6. Screwdriver.
7. Hammer.
8. Metal snips.
9. Socket (Magnetic Tip) and shank.
10. Crescent wrench.
11. Level.
12. Carpenter's square.
13. 2 Ladders.
14. Heavy duty pencil.
15. 1/4" Masonry bit.
NOTE: IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU KNOW YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CODE REQUIREMENTS FOR MOBILE HOME, RESIDENTIAL, COMMERCIAL, AND INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS AND YOU HAVE ACQUIRED THE PERMITS (IF NEEDED) IN YOUR LOCAL AREA. 
Parts List:
(Part # 1) Rollformed "C" channel.
(Part # 2) Rollform Gutter fascia (regular application)
(Part # 2a) Extruded gutter splice. (automatically sent with your order if needed.)
(Part # 3) N/A
(Part # 4) N/A
(Part # 5) 2 "blue" foam gutter end blocks.
(Part # 6) 2 brackets for each post with slotted head bolts, fender washers, 3" 
                Hex bolts & appropriate sized nuts.
(Part # 7) Appropriate number of 3" square aluminum posts. (Standard length is 8'. 
                If you need longer posts, they are available for a minimal extra charge)
(Part # 8) 12" "W" Rollformed Aluminum Awning panels. (Pans)
(Part # 9) Aluminum flashing.
(Part # 10) Downspout drop elbow
(Part # 11) Downspout (10' lengths)
(Part # 12) Downspout diversion elbow
(Part # 13) Color trim strip.
(Part # 14) 2 corner caps. (optional)

Your kit also automatically includes: 1/4" Self-tapping hex head screws for use on extruded pieces, 1/4" Sheetmetal screws for rollformed pieces, 3" long screws for mounting wall hangar, Caulking, 1-1/8" Fender washers with 3/8" holes, 2 Concrete anchors for each post with 1/4" holes, (optional use), and Awning pan clips (optional use). 

(Part # 1) Wall Hangar:
Select the spot where the rollformed wall hangar will mount to the wall. Draw a level horizontal line on the wall for positioning the rollformed "C" channel (wall hangar). To determine the height of the wall hangar, allow a 1/4" to 1/2" slope from the wall to the Front facia gutter. "Preset" the hangar in place with a couple of nails if possible to hold it in alignment. Place a 3" long screw approximately every foot. If required for exceptionally long awnings, the wall hangar must be "spliced" simply by snipping two 3/4" deep slices on one piece of the hangar where it will overlap the first piece of hangar. The "snips" should be made at the 90 degree turns on the hangar. After mounting the wall hangar, caulk it on the top where the wall meets the hangar.
(Part # 2) Front Fascia Gutter:
If required for exceptionally long awnings, the front facia gutter must be "spliced" by utilizing the splice(s) (Part # 2a) contained in your kit. Keeping the front facia gutter reasonably level, line up the 2 or more front facia gutter pieces on the ground and slide the splice in place to check for fit and alignment. Temporarily remove splice and caulk it generously and then replace it in the gutter. Screw this splice in place with 12 self-tapping screws. 8 of the screws should be placed in the trim recess provided on the "face" of the gutter and 4 of them should be used on the other side as shown below. Front Fascia Gutter and Side Fascia Assembly: (For installation purposes, we will label the left and right side of the patio cover, awning, or carport as if you were to stand away from the structure and look at it. In this view, the patio cover, awning, or carport would be between you and the structure to which it is attached.) With Gutter (Part # 2) set on ground, using self-tapping screws,  attach both the left side facia (Part # 3) and the right side fascia (Part # 4) to either end of the facia gutter. The side fascias are designed to be "pressed" into place and then screwed to the gutter.  Do not install the end caps yet. Apply a generous amount of caulking to the small blue foam blocks (Part # 5) and "press" them squarely into place in the corners of the gutter where the side and front facias intersect. Lay out the posts near the ground anchors where they will be installed. At this time it is a very good idea to place a mark at every 1-foot interval (beginning at either end) along the very top of the front facia gutter. You will use these marks to align the awning pans and thereby prevent the installation of a "fan" shaped product. Starting each time from the same end of the awning, Place an identical set of marks on the under side of the wall hangar and the the gutter for easy visibility. With the help of one or more assistants (depending on the size of your awning) hoist the perimeter (both the front and 2 side facias) into place and support it temporarily with ladders or wooden braces. Attach both of the side facias to the wall hangar using self-tapping screws. (Part # 6) Post Brackets,Bolts, and Posts (Part # 7): Determine where you would like your posts to be located on the front gutter assembly. Give us a call and we'll discuss the easiest method to use for your situation. Next, drill two 3/8" holes in the bottom of the gutter to mount the post brackets to the gutter using the slotted head bolts and placing a well caulked fender washer in the interior of the gutter for each hole. Secure the bracket to the gutter with the nuts. Place the gutter in position on the ground to be used as a template for the location of the posts. BE SURE TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION THE DISTANCE AWAY FROM THE WALL HANGER AND THE SLOPE OF THE AWNING. You might want to elevate the end nearest the structure to allow for the slope calculation. This can be done at ground level using the wall your hangar is attached to as a starting point or by using a plumb from the hangar to the ground if the hangar is attached to an eave. After locating the position of the bottom of the posts, mark the spot and either fasten the post bracket to concrete with the anchors provided, the deck with bolts, or dig appropriate size holes for the use of "deadmen". (Deadmen are not provided in the normal  kits, but are available at a reasonable cost. If you are going to need them, please let us know at the time of ordering).  Set the posts and check the gutter for levelness. In most cases, one or more posts must be cut to achieve a level gutter assembly.  Remember it's real easy to cut the posts down in size, but VERY difficult to make them longer !! In cases of longer awnings where there are 2 or more downspout assemblies, the center of the awning can be slightly elevated in order to facilitate proper drainage to all the downspouts. When you are satisfied with the horizontal levelness of the front gutter, secure the posts with the nuts and bolts provided. Remember that the self tapping screws are used for the extruded front and side facia pieces and to attach the pans to them, whereas the sheet metal screws are used to attach rollformed material to rollformed material such as the awning pans to the wall hangar. "Square" up the awning perimeter by temporarily installing an awning pan about every 6 to 10 feet. ! This is IMPORTANT !
(Part # 8) Awning Pan Installation:
The pans should be placed as squarely and as deep as possible into the wall hangar channel. Also the other end of the pan should rest approximately 1/4" past the interior lip of the gutter assembly. This 1/4" overhang facilitates proper drainage into the gutter and allows for cleaning of the gutter. With the perimeter installed and squared up, start installing the awning pans on the left side of the awning (left is determined by facing the structure to which the awning is being attached) The edge of the very first and the very last pan ride in the upper slot of the extruded side facias.  You may need to "squeeze" the pans slightly as  you go in order to stay on the marks you have placed on the wall hangar and the gutter. The pans are designed to interlock by "rolling" the edge of each consecutive pan into the lock of previously installed pan.  Screw down each pan as you go and pay attention to your spacing marks as you progress. Continue installing panels and reuse your "temporary" stabilizing panels as you go. Occasionally check both corners for squareness. If a correction needs to be made, do it immediately, as the awning becomes stronger with each screw that is applied! When all awning pans are securely fastened in place, screw both the far left and the far right pans to the extruded side facias using self-tapping screws.
(Part # 9) Flashing:
Depending on you situation, you may want to caulk your flashing installation both before and after you install the flashing.  Install the flashing to the structure by tucking it under the existing roofing material or edge metals if possible and screwing it to the awning ONLY ON THE VERY TOP OF THE INTERLOCKS of the awning pans. This will provide a screw every TWO feet on the top of the awning. Caulk where necessary. Apply caulking over all exposed screw heads on the top of the awning. If you are installing your unit directly underneath an overhang projecting 12" or more from the structure and the unit will be installed within 5 inches of the underside height of the overhang, the flashing is not normally needed. Ask us if you have any questions.
Downspout kits:
The downspout kit includes a drop elbow (Part # 10), a 10' section of downspout (Part # 11), and an elbow (Part # 12). With a level, determine which way the water will run in the gutter. At the lowest location on your awning gutter, place the drop elbow on the underside of the gutter (as close to a post as possible) and hold the assembly in place while you mark the underside of the gutter for the installation of the drop elbow. Trace the interior hole and screw holes of the drop elbow. Using a hole cutter or a series of drill bit holes, create a drain for the gutter into the center of the flange.  Caulk the flange and using self-tapping screws, install the drop elbow on to the gutter. Install the downspout with 2 Sheetmetal screws onto the drop elbow. The elbow should slide inside the downspout. Attach the strap and bottom elbow with Sheetmetal screws.
(Part # 13) Color Trim Strips:
Attaching the color trim strip is an easy procedure but it requires a little patience to avoid putting unsightly dents in the material. You may want to start this procedure in an area that receives little visual exposure as for some of us; it takes a little practice to get the hang of it. The trim is installed from a roll and is "pressed" into place. Place the roll on the top of the awning and unroll about 6 to 8 feet at a time. Place the bottom edge of the trim into one of the two channels on the exterior of the facias and starting at the end, "run" your fingernail or some other "non-marring" instrument along the top edge while "snapping the trim coil into place. Cut the end to fit and repeat the step for all trim pieces. Corner Pieces: (Part # 14) The corner pieces are installed by pre-drilling them at about a 1" offset (see the diagram) and using self-tapping screws to penetrate the perimeter extrusions and the end caps. That's all there is to it !
Warranty: The finish on your new awning is protected by a 10 Year Limited Warranty against chipping, flaking or peeling. To keep it fresh looking, give it a rinse with a garden hose every year or so. About every 2 years, you might consider washing it with a mild liquid dishwashing soap and a soft cloth.